Q: HOW MOIST SHOULD SOIL BE?

Seeds need a good soak to begin. (Some even soak seeds in a cup of water for 8 hours first) I don't bother. I put 4 inches of base soil, add my seeds, mist with tap water until the top of the soil and seeds are wet, cover with 1 inch of topsoil (called the casing) And then water again with just enough that the weight of pot doubles. If you have a pot with holes and decent soil, the excess water should pour out the bottom. Let it drain naturally for 20 minutes. Now put a plastic bag over the whole pot and put in a warm place around room temp (70 deg F). Do not seal the bag... You need air exchange but try to keep the humidity up. Warmer will cause the seeds to sprout faster, but could also bring mold. (78 Deg F would be the hottest I would let seeds germinate this way) Exposing mold to light, air and proper watering will kill the fuzzy mold if it's a minor infection making it ok for kitty. (If mold continues to grow, spreads or changes colour, dump the whole pot and start over reducing moisture a bit or increasing fresh air the soil gets) After a few days you will start to see the grass tops starting to come through the soil. Give it 1 more day with the bag and then off it comes. At this point direct sunlight will just dry the soil too quick and not do much of anything else. So indirect or grow lamps will work great. Soil should remain moist but not soaked. Soil should feel like moist kitchen spong.

Q: HOW WARM SHOULD MY HOUSE BE TO GROW CAT GRASS?

As discussed above, cat grass does well a bit below and above 70 Deg F or room temperature. Most grains are cool climate plants so they don't like getting too hot. Cooler and temperate throughout their life cycle suits them just fine. Try and keep it above 65 and below 80 for happy plants. Air conditioned houses should have no problem keeping in that range.

Q: MY GRASS IS DYING BECAUSE MY CAT IS DESTROYING IT. HELP!?

I never see cat grass seed companies talk about this and it drives me a little nuts... It's so important! Plants just like humans need time to recover and heal after being banged up. (Or chewed up in the case of cat grass) This recovery time in plants allows it to absorb nutrients to begin new growth, fend off infection and get strong again to handle kitties next attack. After my boys torment the plants, I will give it 3-5 days to start new growth or rotate in a 2nd pot to allow even more recovey time to pot #1. The result is a plant that lives longer, provides more fresh chutes (leaves) that cats really like, and a more healthy resource for the cats to enjoy. During the recovery process, avoid direct sunlight, water moderately and use a pair of scissors to remove torn, chewed or browning leaves. These inconspitious injuries cause the plant to have to divert energy to repair and infection control instead of making new leaves. This may seem odd, but don't let your cats eat too much of the total grass. This is easier said than done as I've witnessed myself. I would say that if kitty eats more than 1/2 of a total plant stem, the plants risk of dying goes way up leaving a hole in the pot and kitties heart. This is where recovery becomes so important. Keep in mind that cat grass is not lawn grass... You can't cut it every day like my crazy neighbor does. If you've ever pruned roses, tomatoes or any other plant or tree, you know they warn you not to take too much off at once. The plant will shock and possibly die or get sick and eventually croak from stress.

Q: DO I NEED TO BUY OR USE FERTILIZER?

Completely avoid ALL fertilizers other than a bit of aged COMPOSTED manure. Definitely no chemical or slow release fertilizers. You can make your cat very sick or even kill him/her. 1 part composted manure to 5 parts soil will work fine to recover used soil. Fertilizer is not really needed when you're using a decent soil out of the bag. Do not spend a fortune on soil. My bags cost $0.99 on sale for a 20L bag at Rona each spring. You do not need a $14 bag of miracle grow and you really don't want soil with fertilizers added. You can keep recycling the same soil indefinitely if you add the right things to it. Most cities offer cheap or free compost from their recycling programs... That stuff is gold for this purpose. Soil is ALWAYS decomposing. As the nutrients are used by plants, you just need to add fresh nutrients also in some stage of decomposition. One thing to watch out for is compost with a lot of wood or big chunks of wood. (Not good) A bit is good but it's very slow to release food for the plant and can even change the acidity of the soil. (also not good) If you get a bag with a lot of chunks, just sift it out.

Q: HOW DO I KNOW YOUR SEED IS GOOD?

Every new bag of grains I pickup from the farm is tested for germination minimums before being sold. (100 random seeds are tested) All grains are spot tested every 2 weeks to make sure germination stays above a minimum of 90%. (Considered excellent by farm seed standards) If your seeds fail to germinate, there might be an issue with process, contamination or environment. Try 10 seeds between 2 damp (not soaking) paper towels in a warm place (75deg F) in a zip lock bag for about 6 days. DO NOT let the paper towel dry out! Seeds need constant moisture and warmth. If they start sprouting, your seed is good. Start by eliminating the most likely culprit... Your soil and its moisture level. Temperature is next followed by water (contamination). Lot's of sites out there to help you with seed issues.

Q: CAN I USE SEED FROM A GROCERY STORE TO GROW MY OWN CAT GRASS?

You can, but it's very hard to find living seed in any form at a store. If you can get it to grow, it's clean and comes from a trusted source... I would say go with it. Most grain products are processed (steamed/pressed) so it kills the seed in order to give it a good shelf life. I have heard that some brands of plain popcorn kernels will sprout (which cats can eat too) but most are chemical and heat treated to eleviate the kernels from rotting on the shelves. Not advised.

Q: DO I NEED ANY EXPENSIVE EQUIPMENT OR TOOLS?

Not at all. I even occasionally use dollar store potting soil in a pinch. A few pots, soil, a spray bottle for water and seeds. Most houses are warm enough in the winter and have enough light coming through windows for grass to grow quite well. The expensive tools will help it grow faster and maybe better, but for an average home, simple works just fine. You will notice a difference in the health and thickness of the grass growing under a $30/30w LED grow light vs a window.

Q: SHOULD I BUY "X BRAND" SOIL? IT'S SO EXPENSIVE!"

Probably not worth it. I make my own with simple (and often free ingredients) My happy soil recipe is simple and cheap... I sift all my bagged compost ($o.99 Rona) soil with a strainer I got at the dollar store to get bigger chunks out into a reusable 40L tote. I then add 3 cups of perlite (Any garden store $5/bag), half a brick of compressed coconut coir (Petsmart reptiles care section $8 for 3 bricks), 2-3 tbsp egg shells crushed into powder (From breakfast. Rinse shells, dry and save in the freezer until you have enough to throw in the blender). Then add 2 handfuls of compost manure (Rona $3 a bag on sale) and finally 2 heaping handfuls of my home compost (Just fruit and veg waste $Free). This is also my seedling starter for tomatoes, peppers, onions... Really anything. This recipe makes about 30L of soil for under $3 that is better and more full of natural nutrients than anything miracle grow makes. You will never have to worry about kitty getting sick from eating some of it while in a grass trance.

Question 1

HOW LONG WILL CAT GRASS LIVE?

Accepted Answer

The biggest complaint I read is "The grass died so soon". I can't speak to the quality of seed or their process, but simple, basic info can help with most issues.
To address the most common complaint about their cat grass dying too fast... Think of it this way... If I put you in a room under healthy conditions and fed you 3 good meals a day, you would survive and thrive. If I put the same amount of food in the same room but put 50 people in the room with you, given time, most people would die and anyone left alive would probably be sick and weakened. Plants are the exact same. Cat grass is oats (or another grain type) and they all need space/food/air/temperature/etc to stay healthy and grow. Growing oats, it is recomended you plant 18 seeds per square foot in a field maximum... When we grow cat grass, it is not uncommon to have 50+ seeds in a 4 inch pot. (That's roughly 12 sq inches btw) There is simply too much competition for resources among all those seeds so most will die after a short run and the rest will get weak from trying to thrive under too much competition from all the other seeds. The seed itself is packed with nutrients to get the seedling started, but it has limits. When we grow oat for cats, it's not for longevity... it's for those nutrient filled spouts. It's not meant to last.

Question 2

SO I SHOULD SPACE MY SEEDS OUT??

Accepted Answer

Well, yes and no. You're not trying to grow full size wheat plants. Cat grass is a young, tender, sweet plant. As oat, wheat, barley or any other grain plant ages it gets tough and woody... Think of straw... That is these grain plants that have gone to maturity, gathered, dried and baled. Your cat will have a hard time eating, chewing, digesting it.
I see these over seeded pots of grass in pet stores and I just think to myself... "Yeah, that's going to last a week at most. $8.99? What a bargain! Lol" It looks pretty and healthy, but it's not. The more seeds in a pot, the faster resources in the soil will get used up once the plant starts "eating" from the soil. It looks healthy when freshly sprouted because it's living on stored seed nutrients. In a 4 inch pot, I would recommend 30 seeds... Just estimate, you don't need to count.

Question 3

HOW IMPORTANT IS SOIL WITH CAT GRASS?

Accepted Answer

I hate saying this, but grains will sprout in almost anything. Backyard dirt? Sure! But there is a catch... your seedling will need soil nutrients pretty quick when the seed runs out of it's own... Most backyard dirt has very little... Especially Nitrogen and phosphorus. Nitrogen is what develops green growth and Phosphorus is required by the plant from the seedling stage through to maturity... AKA root development. I know what you're thinking... But he just said cat grass is supposed to be eaten young and roots shouldn't matter? This is true, but your cat grass will need decent soil and SOME root structure in order to recover from your happy kitties munching on it. After kitty attacks, the baby plants go into shock and recovery so they can grow new leaves for kitties next munch-a-thon. Otherwise the plants wouldn't survive after the first attack. (This is why those overpriced pet store pots die so quick... Cheap soil, way too many seeds and not enough nutrients for recovery, so the grass dies from shock and malnutrition)
A decent potting mix will work, but beware those with fertilizers in them. That's just asking for a sick kitty. With so many plants sharing the same food tray, your little plants will eventually sicken, starve and die... This is ok... We achieved what we wanted to... Just ask the cats. Start your next batch of cat grass.
I get asked a lot if the same soil can be reused... Again, yes and no. You will need to replenish the nutrients in that soil before planting in it. I use well aged, COMPOSTED sheep manure mix to refresh my soil. (Found at any garden center or big box store year round) After a pot of grass has passed, I dump the old pot it into a recovery bin/tote (with all the other old pots of grass) with some manure compost added in. I then give it a few weeks to recover and for all the little helpful organisms a chance to repopulate and make the soil healthy again. A single 20l bag of compost sheep manure can last years doing this. It doesn't take much. Time is the more important factor.
A note on manure... Manure compost is not the same as farmers manure (The stinky stuff). Even plain manure can come in several stages and blends. <-- You don't want this! Manure compost has been sterilized, aged, broken down and contains other plant material in decay to provide nutrients. It has no smell of poop because it isn't poop anymore. Yes, it is okay if kitty eats some by accident. Yes, I always have a bag open inside my house. It just smells like fresh soil.

Question 4

HOW MOIST SHOULD SOIL BE?

Accepted Answer

Seeds need a good soak to begin. (Some even soak seeds in a cup of water for 8 hours first) I don't bother. I put 4 inches of base soil, add my seeds, mist with tap water until the top of the soil and seeds are wet, cover with 1 inch of topsoil (called the casing) And then water again with just enough that the weight of pot doubles. If you have a pot with holes and decent soil, the excess water should pour out the bottom. Let it drain naturally for 20 minutes. Now put a plastic bag over the whole pot and put in a warm place around room temp (70 deg F). Do not seal the bag... You need air exchange but try to keep the humidity up. Warmer will cause the seeds to sprout faster, but could also bring mold. (78 Deg F would be the hottest I would let seeds germinate this way) Exposing mold to light, air and proper watering will kill the fuzzy mold if it's a minor infection making it ok for kitty. (If mold continues to grow, spreads or changes colour, dump the whole pot and start over reducing moisture a bit or increasing fresh air the soil gets) After a few days you will start to see the grass tops starting to come through the soil. Give it 1 more day with the bag and then off it comes. At this point direct sunlight will just dry the soil too quick and not do much of anything else. So indirect or grow lamps will work great. Soil should remain moist but not soaked. Soil should feel like moist kitchen spong.

Question 5

HOW WARM SHOULD MY HOUSE BE TO GROW CAT GRASS?

Accepted Answer

As discussed above, cat grass does well a bit below and above 70 Deg F or room temperature. Most grains are cool climate plants so they don't like getting too hot. Cooler and temperate throughout their life cycle suits them just fine. Try and keep it above 65 and below 80 for happy plants. Air conditioned houses should have no problem keeping in that range.

Question 6

MY GRASS IS DYING BECAUSE MY CAT IS DESTROYING IT. HELP!?

Accepted Answer

I never see cat grass seed companies talk about this and it drives me a little nuts... It's so important! Plants just like humans need time to recover and heal after being banged up. (Or chewed up in the case of cat grass) This recovery time in plants allows it to absorb nutrients to begin new growth, fend off infection and get strong again to handle kitties next attack. After my boys torment the plants, I will give it 3-5 days to start new growth or rotate in a 2nd pot to allow even more recovey time to pot #1. The result is a plant that lives longer, provides more fresh chutes (leaves) that cats really like, and a more healthy resource for the cats to enjoy. During the recovery process, avoid direct sunlight, water moderately and use a pair of scissors to remove torn, chewed or browning leaves. These inconspitious injuries cause the plant to have to divert energy to repair and infection control instead of making new leaves.
This may seem odd, but don't let your cats eat too much of the total grass. This is easier said than done as I've witnessed myself. I would say that if kitty eats more than 1/2 of a total plant stem, the plants risk of dying goes way up leaving a hole in the pot and kitties heart. This is where recovery becomes so important. Keep in mind that cat grass is not lawn grass... You can't cut it every day like my crazy neighbor does. If you've ever pruned roses, tomatoes or any other plant or tree, you know they warn you not to take too much off at once. The plant will shock and possibly die or get sick and eventually croak from stress.

Question 7

DO I NEED TO BUY OR USE FERTILIZER?

Accepted Answer

Completely avoid ALL fertilizers other than a bit of aged COMPOSTED manure. Definitely no chemical or slow release fertilizers. You can make your cat very sick or even kill him/her.
1 part composted manure to 5 parts soil will work fine to recover used soil. Fertilizer is not really needed when you're using a decent soil out of the bag. Do not spend a fortune on soil. My bags cost $0.99 on sale for a 20L bag at Rona each spring. You do not need a $14 bag of miracle grow and you really don't want soil with fertilizers added. You can keep recycling the same soil indefinitely if you add the right things to it.
Most cities offer cheap or free compost from their recycling programs... That stuff is gold for this purpose. Soil is ALWAYS decomposing. As the nutrients are used by plants, you just need to add fresh nutrients also in some stage of decomposition. One thing to watch out for is compost with a lot of wood or big chunks of wood. (Not good) A bit is good but it's very slow to release food for the plant and can even change the acidity of the soil. (also not good) If you get a bag with a lot of chunks, just sift it out.

Question 8

HOW DO I KNOW YOUR SEED IS GOOD?

Accepted Answer

Every new bag of grains I pickup from the farm is tested for germination minimums before being sold. (100 random seeds are tested) All grains are spot tested every 2 weeks to make sure germination stays above a minimum of 90%. (Considered excellent by farm seed standards)
If your seeds fail to germinate, there might be an issue with process, contamination or environment. Try 10 seeds between 2 damp (not soaking) paper towels in a warm place (75deg F) in a zip lock bag for about 6 days. DO NOT let the paper towel dry out! Seeds need constant moisture and warmth. If they start sprouting, your seed is good. Start by eliminating the most likely culprit... Your soil and its moisture level. Temperature is next followed by water (contamination). Lot's of sites out there to help you with seed issues.

Question 9

CAN I USE SEED FROM A GROCERY STORE TO GROW MY OWN CAT GRASS?

Accepted Answer

You can, but it's very hard to find living seed in any form at a store. If you can get it to grow, it's clean and comes from a trusted source... I would say go with it. Most grain products are processed (steamed/pressed) so it kills the seed in order to give it a good shelf life. I have heard that some brands of plain popcorn kernels will sprout (which cats can eat too) but most are chemical and heat treated to eleviate the kernels from rotting on the shelves. Not advised.

Question 10

DO I NEED ANY EXPENSIVE EQUIPMENT OR TOOLS?

Accepted Answer

Not at all. I even occasionally use dollar store potting soil in a pinch. A few pots, soil, a spray bottle for water and seeds. Most houses are warm enough in the winter and have enough light coming through windows for grass to grow quite well. The expensive tools will help it grow faster and maybe better, but for an average home, simple works just fine. You will notice a difference in the health and thickness of the grass growing under a $30/30w LED grow light vs a window.

Question 11

SHOULD I BUY "X BRAND" SOIL? IT'S SO EXPENSIVE!"

Accepted Answer

Probably not worth it. I make my own with simple (and often free ingredients)
My happy soil recipe is simple and cheap... I sift all my bagged compost ($o.99 Rona) soil with a strainer I got at the dollar store to get bigger chunks out into a reusable 40L tote. I then add 3 cups of perlite (Any garden store $5/bag), half a brick of compressed coconut coir (Petsmart reptiles care section $8 for 3 bricks), 2-3 tbsp egg shells crushed into powder (From breakfast. Rinse shells, dry and save in the freezer until you have enough to throw in the blender). Then add 2 handfuls of compost manure (Rona $3 a bag on sale) and finally 2 heaping handfuls of my home compost (Just fruit and veg waste $Free). This is also my seedling starter for tomatoes, peppers, onions... Really anything. This recipe makes about 30L of soil for under $3 that is better and more full of natural nutrients than anything miracle grow makes. You will never have to worry about kitty getting sick from eating some of it while in a grass trance.

Question 12

What do I do if I run into trouble and it just won't grow or dies?

Accepted Answer

There are tons of sites with good gardiners on them all the time that can answer your questions quickly and help diagnose problems with your process. I will also help whenever I can, but I strongly encourage people to do some reading first to diagnose. You will learn a lot that way. If you do have a problem, do let me know right away so I can run a test on the same seed I sent you. Last thing I want is to have sent you (and others) dead seed by accident. For the record... I have never had a dead seed complaint that wasn't caused by the grower.

Question 13

WHERE SHOULD I STORE THE SEEDS ONCE I GET THEM?

Accepted Answer

Seeds can be stored in the fridge (Not the freezer) and in some cases that does help with germination (Google cold stratification) but grain seeds just need a steady dry, cool, dark place to hang out. I keep my personal seeds in metal cookie tins in the basement so they stay cool in summer and winter. If the area is too humid, they may sprout!

Question 14

CAN I GROW CAT GRASS HYDROPONICALLY?

Accepted Answer

The simple answer is yes... Very easilly, but I would not recommend it... In fact I discourage it. Artificial grow methods require plant nutrient additives because the substrates The stuff the plants grow in like rockwool) are often nutritionally inert or void of nutrient content. These chemicals could seriously hurt your cat. I doubt you will find many hydro nutrient suppliers who have tested their products for feline consumption. Just don't

Question 15

WHAT KIND OF POT SHOULD I USE?

Accepted Answer

Choose a pot that is wider rather than deep whenever possible. I will usually use 3 inch square pot or 4 inch round just because I have so many. Oat Grass roots don't run deep and it honestly won't live long enough to throw or need deep roots anyway. If you really space out the seeds... say 8 seeds in a 4 inch pot, (Which would still be a lot if you were growing the plants to maturity in a field) you could probably keep going for months. However, after a while the stems/leaves would start to get very woody. Each new leaf adds to the central stem of the plant making it tougher and thicker. Cat grass really is meant to be eaten as a tender seedling or a baby plant at most. After 6 weeks, I kill off the pot because my cats don't like it as much.
I sometimes just grow my cat grass in margerine containers... I don't even bother cutting holes for air. (A big no-no in the gardening comunity) As long as I don't overwater and I have good air circulation, my plants will never get old enough to experience root rot or other conditions from having no drinage holes cut. I keep mine going for 4-6 weeks tops.

Question 16

CAN I MAKE POTS AND JUST USE LAWN SEED?

Accepted Answer

Not recomended for a number of reasons. Foremost, many seeds for lawns are now treated with anti-fungal sprays, fertilizers and germination coatings. Definitely NOT organic or non gmo. Lawn grass is also a different species completely in the "Grasses" family. It is harder to digest and may give your kitty tummy troubles. You also get much better yield from grains. Cat grasses have leaves that are much broader and juicy than lawn grass. I researched this quite a bit to see if it was a viable option for my own cats at one point.

Question 17

IS THIS SEED SUITABLE FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION?

Accepted Answer

Absolutely! If you would like to grow grain grass to put in smoothies or for salads, this product is also really good for humans. (Think bean sprouts from the market, except it's a grain instead of a bean) The sprouts are full of nutrients.

Question 18

DO YOU GROW IT DIFFERENT FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION?

Accepted Answer

You don't have to... I grow it for myself and use the exact same prosess that I use when growing for my kitty's. There are methods to get fatter sprouts for human consumption but they are much more intensive and complicated. (Google growing bean sprouts) For human consumption, I would recomend less light than if you are growing it for your cat. Humans can be very sensitive to the bitterness of many green plants. More light during sprouting  means greener grass and more bitterness. (try and aim for lighter lime green leaves vs dark green leaves for your own consumption if you find it bitter) Over the years much of our produce/greens have been bred to have a weakened bitter taste. There is nothing wrong with taking a snipping of your cats grass and tossing it in your morning smoothie though. (Don't tell the cats though... They'll crap in your shoes! Haha)

Question 19

HOW MUCH IS SHIPPING GOING TO COST?

Accepted Answer

In Canada, most areas get charged the same amount for Canada Post ground mail. A 1/2 Lb envelope is around $5-$6. A full Lb is around $8-$9. (Tax included) Once an order goes over 500g (1 Lb), the price for shipping really goes up. (Be aware of this)
In most cases, unless you live within 5 minutes of me, hand delivery may be cheaper than shipping by mail, but otherwise having your seed mailed out is cheaper once you incorporate the cost of gas, travel, vehicle wear, etc.
However, even with the shipping fees, you will still be paying only a fraction of what online and brick n mortar stores are charging.
Oddly enough, the cheapest and fastest solution is to pickup in person. (If available... And I usually can be)

Question 20

CAN THESE GRAINS BE USED FOR MYCOLOGY (SPAWN BAGS)

Accepted Answer

Absolutely. I use them myslf for a variety of mushrooms. Be warned that these seeds are cleaned and thus have no hulls on them. My farmer said he will try and save all the grain hulls for me in the summer of 2121, so I may have cheap grain hulls for sale. I'll keep everyone posted how that goes.
As well as being cleaned, these are LIVE seeds. They will have to be pressure sterilized to kill the seed before introducing spawn or you'll have a crazy mess to deal with. However, there is research to indicate that sprouting your grains and then sterilizing them opens up a whole new world of nutrition for your spawn bags. (Google it)

Question 21

CAN I MAKE BEER WITH THESE SEEDS?

Accepted Answer

While I'm not experienced with the beer process hands on, I have done some distilling and yes... They are perfect for similiar applications like beer or alcohol production. Again, keep in mind it's a LIVE seed!

Question 22

CAN I FEED THESE SEEDS TO BIRDS, RABBITS, ETC?"

Accepted Answer

You can without worry. Any farmer will tell you animals and birds are the bain of their day when it comes to sowing season. You can even eat seeds yourself... I munch on them all the time. While your pet or wildlife may like them, be aware it will attract pests you may not like. Rats, mice being the one that people really don't want. Keep feedings small so that all or most of the seed is gone before the scavengers show up.
Please be sure that grains are a food your animals can digest. When in doubt, call the vet.

Question 23

MY STORED SEED IS GROWING FUZZY STUFF ON IT. IS IT OK?

Accepted Answer

It is definitely not ok. Your seed somehow got wet or damp through contamination or environment effects. Ask any mushroom grower about this and you will see that garbage is your only real option at that point. Either a strain of fungus (or several)or bacteria has made a new home on your seeds. It could be harmless... It could be toxic. Without a lab test it's imposible to know. Don't take the chance.

Question 24

WHY DON'T YOU ACCEPT CREDIT CARDS?

Accepted Answer

CC's cost more money on your end and mine. Besides losing a chunk of every sale to Visa, I also have to put a lot of money into service charges, equipment, web design and maintenance. (Not to mention charge backs... Ugh!) I did it with a small business before and it was a real pain and very expensive. Not worth it in smaller quantities, lower cost items or if you can manage another way. Keep in mind I'm not a retail store or online behemoth with 220% (or more) markup. I'm just a guy sharing a great deal to other people in my community. I barely break even most of the time. If my cost goes up... Your price goes up.

FAQ and Growing Guide